New Website!!!

Hey Everyone!!!

     I appreciate everyone who stopped by and read my blog over the bast year! A few months ago I launched a new website, so all of my new blog posts can be seen there. Follow this link to check it out :)!!! www.meaganmartinclimbing.com

My new home page!!! 

A Long Overdue Post

     It’s been a while since I wrote a blog post, and aside from being busy I don’t have a good excuse. I tend to be picky about what I choose to post, and as a result there hasn’t been a post from me in 6 months. Since my last post I’ve probably started to write five or six different entries and decided there was something wrong with each one, resulting in no post at all. Therefore, this is my attempt at turning over a new leaf, so hopefully this post makes it out of my Audrey Hepburn journal and on to my new website…

I wasn't kidding about the journal

     Since my last post a lot has happened, and luckily some of the events are documented through Instagram. I have some amazing new sponsors that I am working with (Adidas Outdoors, Gnarly Nutrition, Joshua Tree Skin Care, and La Sportiva). I am also happy to say that my other sponsors (Organic Climbing and Rockwerx) that I have been working with for almost a year are still helping me pursue my dreams! I’ve also taken on a new role as a coach at ABC Kids Climbing in Boulder, Colorado, which I started at the end of October. Becoming a coach at ABC has been an amazing opportunity for me, and I feel so lucky to get to work with so many amazing kids and coaches on a weekly basis. I think that having a gym like ABC is the best way to help mold the next generation of climbers. In my opinion they are in the best position to achieve their goals and reach their full potential not only as climbers, but as members of this amazing community.

We were Bouldering National Champs this Year! Photo by Greenz Productions

     In addition to coaching and competing I have also been doing clinics across the country. Clinics have been a great way to meet new people and share my passion for climbing with them. Since I came from a gymnastics and track background the idea of clinics and camps has always been something that I was used to. It is nice to see that in the sport of climbing people are interested in developing their climbing skills through clinics and camps. It is something that other sports have been doing for a long time, and in climbing it is more popular than ever at the moment. It really shows that the sport which so many of us love is truly progressing.

The clinic I did after the Heist in Boston! Photo by Tim Roy 

     This upcoming month will be a busy one for me, filled with multiple competitions and hopefully some outdoor climbing. It all starts next weekend when I travel to Boston for the Ring of Fire finals. While I am there I will be teaching a clinic on Sunday morning following the competition. I have also been given the opportunity to coach the CRG team at the Glastonbury gym on Monday, which I am looking forward to. Following the Ring of Fire is Dominion Riverrock in Richmond, and finally the Toronto Bouldering World Cup in Canada! I’m really excited about my upcoming competitions and in the meantime I am training for them as best as I can.

Qualifiers at the Munich Bouldering World Cup! I can't wait for Toronto!!! Photo by Sebastien Lazure

    

     Somehow I was able to give a short recap of the last six months as well as a glimpse at what is to come for me. I am really happy with everything that is going on right now, and I really appreciate all of the support that I have had over the past couple of years! The launch of my website was a great success and the feedback I have received from everyone has been lovely. It looks like my work here is done for now. Until next time…(Hopefully not 6 months from now)

xoxo

Meagan 

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

     Whirlwind! That is the only word I think creates an adequate description of my recent travels. Following my time in England I made my way to Arco, Italy, for the Rockmaster competition. It was sort of surreal to be part of such a legendary competition, so I had to make sure that I consciously took everything in. Despite not making finals I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Arco, but in all honesty how does one not enjoy their time in Italy? Lake Garda seemed to be the site that everyone who found out I was going to Arco seemed to suggest I go see. I have to say the way everyone described the lake still didn’t do it justice; it was absolutely breathtaking. In addition to the beauty that I was constantly surrounded by in Arco was delicious the food and coffee. I am not sure I will ever enjoy pizza from the US again, because the pizza I had was phenomenal, thinking about it right now is making me sad knowing that I can’t have any. I also find myself constantly trying to make or find a cappuccino as good as the ones that I got in town multiple times a day, for the 3 or 4 days I was there, but alas my cappuccinos are no match. I am constantly telling people that one of my favorite things about Italy is that at anytime during the day you could see someone walking with gelato. That little fact was amazing because I never felt like it was too early or too late in the day to indulge in some delicious gelato. I think I had so much nutella gelato that I don’t need to have nutella for about a year. 

Lake Garda off in the distance between the mountains!

     

     Following Arco, Alex and I took an impromptu trip to Innsbruck, Austria. Innsbruck seemed like the best place to go for a few days before heading to Stuttgart, Germany, for the Adidas Rockstars competition. The time I spent in Innsbruck was quite relaxed and really fun. It was nice to be able to go to Tivoli and get a couple of training sessions in before the Rockstars competition. Unfortunately, I may have climbed a bit too much, but you live and you learn. The mountains that engulf the town are absolutely gorgeous, and as I walked, shopped, and ate in the city center I kept wishing I had more time to spend there. All of a sudden my couple of days in Innsbruck were up and I was off to Stuttgart! Prior to my arrival in Stuttgart I had heard from many people that the Adidas Rockstars competition was one of the best competitions they had ever been to. Not only was the competition itself a lot of fun, but also the overall experience was described to me as one that made climbers feel like the professional athletes that we are. To my satisfaction the competition lived up to every tale I had heard and more, my 14^th place finish was a little bonus to the experience. Everything from the hotel, transportation, massages, and amazing food to the giant arena, great boulder problems, and excited fans was amazing! In my opinion, the Adidas Rockstars competition is in a league of its own as far as competitions go.

Qualifier 1 at Adidas Rockstars! 

     After Stuttgart I returned to Boulder, Colorado, for a few days to move into my new apartment, and to try to help some of my friends affected by the flood. I almost felt guilty for being away from something that was so devastating to my community, but I am looking forward to being back there and helping out as much as I can! I basically unpacked and then repacked my bags to head to Boston for the first ever women only competition at the Central Rock Gym Watertown called The Heist! I have to say I am so honored that I was able to be part of such a revolutionary competition. When I heard about the competition I was 100% in from the start! Not only did I think it was a great idea, but also a couple of my favorite ladies (Andrea Brennan and Brittany Marryiott) organized the event. The competition was definitely a great success, and I was psyched to have my Rockwerx family at the competition to cheer me on!!! I ended up taking 6^th place, and even though I didn’t have my best day of climbing, it was impossible to be unhappy. Since I was in such a fun and supportive atmosphere with many of my closest friends, I just couldn’t seem to stop laughing and smiling! The following day I taught two bouldering clinics and prior to teaching them I was extremely nervous. Looking back I can’t believe I was so nervous since I had such a fun time in both of my clinics! It seemed like everyone enjoyed it and learned a few new things, which is all I could ask for! When it comes to competitive sports it is sometimes difficult to remember that the goal is to always have fun! There are definitely moments where all you want to do is crawl into a hole and die, but at the end of the day climbing is one of the most amazing sports and we are all so lucky to be a part of this sport. So why not focus on the fun that comes with climbing and just keep smiling! 

Final 1 at The Heist!!! Photo By Cort Gariepy

London Calling

     I have been in Europe for about eleven days now, and I absolutely love it! The last time that I was in Europe was this past February when I went to Switzerland to climb outside. This trip is a little different, since I am more focused on competitions at the moment. My trip began in Munich, Germany, with the last Boulder World Cup of the season. Going into the competition I was nervous, but excited to be competing in my second World Cup. Unfortunately the competition did not turn out the way I had hoped, but at this point it is more about gaining as much experience as possible to better prepare myself for next season. Despite my underwhelming performance, I did enjoy myself. The problems that I got to climb on were tricky, but just what I need to become more familiar with in order to improve my climbing. Watching the rest of the competition was very exciting, and the problems looked like they were very fun to climb on. I feel like I cannot talk about the competition without mentioning the venue. The competition was held at the Olympic stadium, which was constructed for the 1972 Olympics held in Munich. Since I am a bit of a history buff, I was quite excited by the fact that I got to compete at the stadium where so many other amazing athletes competed before me. All in all I would say that my trip to Munich was a great one!

Munich Olympic Stadium

After I stuck the dyno in qualifiers! Photo by: Patho Dieguito

     Following the Munich World Cup I made my way to Sheffield, England, with my friend Alex Puccio. Alex has been living here for a few years, so it has been nice to see England with, basically, a local. I had never been to England before, but I’ve always wanted to go. I have to say that so far I have thoroughly enjoyed myself. The climbing gym here, The Climbing Works, is just what I need to get better at the European style of setting. The gym is equipped with all of the slabs and volumes my heart can desire. I have two more competitions before I go back to the states, so The Climbing Works in Sheffield is the best place for me to train.

Alex and me after a day of training at The Climbing Works!

     I obviously couldn’t see England and not make my way to London, so last Thursday Alex, Tash, Adrian, and I drove to London for a weekend of site seeing, good food, shopping, and a bit of partying. I blame the trip to London for the excessive amount of luggage I’ve been toting around, but what can I say a girl needs options! London is absolutely beautiful, and filled with so many historic places. Whether you are visiting Buckingham Palace or just walking along on the old cobblestone roads, there are moments where you feel as though you have been transported through time. I will definitely have to go back for a bit longer next time in order to see everything that I want to see. I really love big Cities, so getting to walk around and look at all of the buildings whilst observing the vast array of people in the city is almost mesmerizing and very enjoyable. It is no secret that I love fashion, and I love to shop, so being in a city where fashion is so major was just the cherry on top for me. The next stop for me will be Arco, Italy, on Thursday (my Birthday!!!) and I cannot wait! Ciao, until then. 

The Burberry store on Regent Street! 

I had to pick up a copy of Tattler! It's almost as good as Vogue ;)

PSICOBLOC!!!

     Last week I spent some time in Utah, this time I wasn’t going to Joe’s Valley, but to the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show, and the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series competition. The last time I attend the OR I was probably 14 years old, but lucky for me the OR hasn’t changed too much. The biggest change was that I am now 23, and trying to make a living as a climber. Which means that every meeting I had was that much more important, because I need to be able to support myself now. Coming back into the climbing community has been a great experience for me, and the OR made me more aware of how awesome this community is. The climbing community is a very close and supportive one, and when it comes to the outdoor companies the vibe is the same. It was nice to sit in a meeting and feel at ease talking to athlete managers at various companies about my passion for the sport of climbing. I felt as though I was talking to a friend about my favorite thing in the world, climbing, which happened to be their favorite thing as well. Thus, I have nothing but good things to say about my summer OR experience.

Working out the moves on the route during semi-finals (Photo by Tiffany Hensley)

     When I heard that there was going to be a Psicobloc competition in the U.S. I just wanted to know how I could be a part of it. The idea to create this particular event was one that had been on the minds of many American climbers, but it was Chris Sharma and Mike Beck (along with the many other dedicated people) that were able to make the dream a reality. The idea that we were going to be climbing 50+ feet over a 12-foot deep pool excited the thrill seeker in me. I have always loved the feeling of falling, whether it is on a roller coaster or falling into water from a high height, it is the moment of weightlessness that a free fall creates, that is the moment that I love. The main aspect of the competition that made me nervous was the fact that 50+ feet meant a lot of moves! Since I mostly boulder, I was worried that my endurance wouldn’t be up to par in comparison to some of my talented competitors. Since the format of the competition incorporated the duel aspect I knew that I at least had a chance to do well in the competition. I am naturally a pretty fast climber, which is exaggerated when I climb routes due to the fact that I lack the endurance to move at a slower pace. In the end my speed did end up working to my advantage, and I was able to pull off a third place finish! I couldn’t be happier with my performance; I had fun and put forth my best effort, which is all anyone can do. The women's field was made up of so many talented climbers that it could have been anyone up on the podium, which made the competition all the more exciting.

Lynn Hill climbing on the wall during semi-finals! I was so psyched to meet her :)!

     Even though this comp was unlike any competition I have ever been to, one thing remained the same, and that was the fun I had with my friends. Competitions are serious, but no matter how serious they are, I can always count on the fact that I will be laughing 90% of the time. This is said a lot, but getting to see some of my friends is one of my favorite parts of competitions. Since climbers tend to lead a more transient lifestyle we don’t get to see one another as often as we would like, so competitions give everyone that chance to catch up and have a good time!

Having fun with the girls reading the semi-finals route! (Photo by Kim Puccio)

     Coming back to climbing has proven to be one of the best decisions I have ever made. I am so thankful for the opportunities I have had since I have been back, one of them being the opportunity to be a part of the Psicobloc Masters Series. The event was epic! It was obvious, with the presence of the roaring crowd, that it really resonated with a mainstream audience. Climbing outside, competing, and traveling is really all I want to do, and it wouldn’t be possible without the help of a few key people. Rockwerx is one of my sponsors, and from day one they have believed in my abilities as a climber, and supported my dream of being a professional climber. I feel so blessed to be working with a company that allows me to do what I love! I am excited for what is next, which will be the Munich World Cup, so I will be off to Europe in couple of weeks J! Until then I will be training and climbing outside, I have to say I am quite happy with my life right now!

   

   

     

Dress for Success!

     In light of the upcoming competitions that I will be attending, I thought it would be fun to write a post about how to prepare for a competition. It is common for athletes to open up about their training secrets before major competitions, but I would like to focus on a subject that is a little lighter. As a former pole vaulter and gymnast, I can attest to the effort that women put in to looking their best in competitions. It may sound like a silly topic, but it is one that high-level athletes in many different sports take into account when they are getting ready to compete. If you look back at the last Olympics the proof is there, because the majority of the women made it a point to not only perform at their best, but also look their best.

Alyia Mustafina looking fierce and focused!

     Make-up may seem like a superfluous thing to worry about while competing, but the majority of female athletes wear it when they compete. Aliya Mustafina of Russia was full of sparkles with her eye-popping eye shadow, which made her even more noticeable as she prepared to salute the judges before each of her events. In my opinion she looked amazing, but when it comes to eye make up I prefer to go a little simpler. If you are going to go for a dramatic look on your face it is important to choose only one area to make a statement with. Mustafina was spot on when she chose to focus on her eyes, and went for the simple and natural look on her cheeks and her lips. This made her face look flawless and not too overdone. For climbing I like to put on a little mascara and some Maybelline baby lips Chap Stick, that is my go to look, but every now and then it is nice to go for a more dramatic look.

Rebecca Adlington's creative nail designs are perfect for any competition.

     Nail polish is probably one of my favorite things when it comes to beauty supplies. Today it is common to see not only bright and crazy colors, but also really cool designs. I always paint my nails before a competition, not only does it relax me, but it also takes my mind off the stress that comes with thinking about a competition. It is also a great way to express your creativity, or even represent your country. Great Britain’s Rebecca Adlington chose to put the British flag on her nails during the Olympics and she totally nailed it! As long as your nails are too intense to distract you from the task at hand I say the more creative the better.

I am extremely partial to Hello Kitty, but 3D nail designs are best to avoid when it comes to competitions.

     When it comes to hair, the most important thing to consider is how to keep it out of your way. The last thing you want to happen is to have your hair keep you from doing what you need to do, because after all you are there to do the best that you can do. I am personally a big fan of braids; they look nice and they seem to stay put. Ponytail braids happen to work best for me, especially if I am sport climbing. It is important to take into account how long your hair is, because if it is too long there are certain hairstyles that won’t work if you are wearing a chalk bag, because your hair can literally end up in the bag when you look up at the holds on the route or problem. Braids seem to be a trend amongst most athletes as well, for example, Jennifer Kessy and April Ross rocked the ponytail braids while they were kicking some tails on the court.

Jennifer Kessy and April Ross celebrate while sporting the classic ponytail braid. 

     When it comes down to it doing your best in a competition is obviously the most important thing, but it doesn’t hurt to look your best too! 

I chose to wear a ponytail braid during qualifiers at SCS Nationals. I loved the way it looked, and it never got in my way! 

Back in the Game

     I recently came back to the sport that I found when I was eleven, one that I would call my passion, rock climbing. Following my college graduation and the conclusion of my track career I decided that climbing was the only thing I wanted to do. Since I’ve come back to climbing I have done quite a few competitions as well as really try to get outside as much as I can. My outdoor adventures began with an amazing two-week trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee, where I stayed with my good friends Kasia and Jimmy. This trip was the first time that I had spent more than a couple of days at an area, and I must say that I enjoyed every minute of it. Following that trip, I got the opportunity to go to Switzerland! Kasia and Jimmy invited me to go with them, and I am so grateful that they did, because Switzerland was, for lack of a better word, breathtaking! Everyday I had to pinch myself, because I could not believe that I was actually there. The rock there was unbelievably amazing as was scenery of the country in its entirety. Not only was the climbing incredible, but I also met some extraordinary fellow climbers while I was there. I can honestly say that Switzerland is a place that I want to go back to as soon as I can, but next time I plan on making my trip much longer.

The view from our kitchen window in Chironico, Switzerland!

  

                        Pamplemousse V11 in Brione, Switzerland! Photo by Albert Barti Wuersch  

     In addition to getting back into the climbing scene I decided to make a huge life decision and make the move from Florida to Boulder, Colorado. Despite my fears, due to the rash decision I made, my experience thus far has been better than I could have ever imagined. Not only have I reconnected with so many wonderful people that I knew from my younger days, but I have also had the pleasure of meeting so many new amazing people that have welcomed me with open arms. I’ve only been in Boulder for a few weeks and I’ve already had the opportunity to climb outside every weekend, compete in SCS Nationals, and take a trip to Joe’s Valley, not a bad way to start this new chapter in my life!

  

The finals route at SCS Nationals! Photo by Beau Kahler