PSICOBLOC!!!

     Last week I spent some time in Utah, this time I wasn’t going to Joe’s Valley, but to the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show, and the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series competition. The last time I attend the OR I was probably 14 years old, but lucky for me the OR hasn’t changed too much. The biggest change was that I am now 23, and trying to make a living as a climber. Which means that every meeting I had was that much more important, because I need to be able to support myself now. Coming back into the climbing community has been a great experience for me, and the OR made me more aware of how awesome this community is. The climbing community is a very close and supportive one, and when it comes to the outdoor companies the vibe is the same. It was nice to sit in a meeting and feel at ease talking to athlete managers at various companies about my passion for the sport of climbing. I felt as though I was talking to a friend about my favorite thing in the world, climbing, which happened to be their favorite thing as well. Thus, I have nothing but good things to say about my summer OR experience.

Working out the moves on the route during semi-finals (Photo by Tiffany Hensley)

     When I heard that there was going to be a Psicobloc competition in the U.S. I just wanted to know how I could be a part of it. The idea to create this particular event was one that had been on the minds of many American climbers, but it was Chris Sharma and Mike Beck (along with the many other dedicated people) that were able to make the dream a reality. The idea that we were going to be climbing 50+ feet over a 12-foot deep pool excited the thrill seeker in me. I have always loved the feeling of falling, whether it is on a roller coaster or falling into water from a high height, it is the moment of weightlessness that a free fall creates, that is the moment that I love. The main aspect of the competition that made me nervous was the fact that 50+ feet meant a lot of moves! Since I mostly boulder, I was worried that my endurance wouldn’t be up to par in comparison to some of my talented competitors. Since the format of the competition incorporated the duel aspect I knew that I at least had a chance to do well in the competition. I am naturally a pretty fast climber, which is exaggerated when I climb routes due to the fact that I lack the endurance to move at a slower pace. In the end my speed did end up working to my advantage, and I was able to pull off a third place finish! I couldn’t be happier with my performance; I had fun and put forth my best effort, which is all anyone can do. The women's field was made up of so many talented climbers that it could have been anyone up on the podium, which made the competition all the more exciting.

Lynn Hill climbing on the wall during semi-finals! I was so psyched to meet her :)!

     Even though this comp was unlike any competition I have ever been to, one thing remained the same, and that was the fun I had with my friends. Competitions are serious, but no matter how serious they are, I can always count on the fact that I will be laughing 90% of the time. This is said a lot, but getting to see some of my friends is one of my favorite parts of competitions. Since climbers tend to lead a more transient lifestyle we don’t get to see one another as often as we would like, so competitions give everyone that chance to catch up and have a good time!

Having fun with the girls reading the semi-finals route! (Photo by Kim Puccio)

     Coming back to climbing has proven to be one of the best decisions I have ever made. I am so thankful for the opportunities I have had since I have been back, one of them being the opportunity to be a part of the Psicobloc Masters Series. The event was epic! It was obvious, with the presence of the roaring crowd, that it really resonated with a mainstream audience. Climbing outside, competing, and traveling is really all I want to do, and it wouldn’t be possible without the help of a few key people. Rockwerx is one of my sponsors, and from day one they have believed in my abilities as a climber, and supported my dream of being a professional climber. I feel so blessed to be working with a company that allows me to do what I love! I am excited for what is next, which will be the Munich World Cup, so I will be off to Europe in couple of weeks J! Until then I will be training and climbing outside, I have to say I am quite happy with my life right now!

   

   

     

Dress for Success!

     In light of the upcoming competitions that I will be attending, I thought it would be fun to write a post about how to prepare for a competition. It is common for athletes to open up about their training secrets before major competitions, but I would like to focus on a subject that is a little lighter. As a former pole vaulter and gymnast, I can attest to the effort that women put in to looking their best in competitions. It may sound like a silly topic, but it is one that high-level athletes in many different sports take into account when they are getting ready to compete. If you look back at the last Olympics the proof is there, because the majority of the women made it a point to not only perform at their best, but also look their best.

Alyia Mustafina looking fierce and focused!

     Make-up may seem like a superfluous thing to worry about while competing, but the majority of female athletes wear it when they compete. Aliya Mustafina of Russia was full of sparkles with her eye-popping eye shadow, which made her even more noticeable as she prepared to salute the judges before each of her events. In my opinion she looked amazing, but when it comes to eye make up I prefer to go a little simpler. If you are going to go for a dramatic look on your face it is important to choose only one area to make a statement with. Mustafina was spot on when she chose to focus on her eyes, and went for the simple and natural look on her cheeks and her lips. This made her face look flawless and not too overdone. For climbing I like to put on a little mascara and some Maybelline baby lips Chap Stick, that is my go to look, but every now and then it is nice to go for a more dramatic look.

Rebecca Adlington's creative nail designs are perfect for any competition.

     Nail polish is probably one of my favorite things when it comes to beauty supplies. Today it is common to see not only bright and crazy colors, but also really cool designs. I always paint my nails before a competition, not only does it relax me, but it also takes my mind off the stress that comes with thinking about a competition. It is also a great way to express your creativity, or even represent your country. Great Britain’s Rebecca Adlington chose to put the British flag on her nails during the Olympics and she totally nailed it! As long as your nails are too intense to distract you from the task at hand I say the more creative the better.

I am extremely partial to Hello Kitty, but 3D nail designs are best to avoid when it comes to competitions.

     When it comes to hair, the most important thing to consider is how to keep it out of your way. The last thing you want to happen is to have your hair keep you from doing what you need to do, because after all you are there to do the best that you can do. I am personally a big fan of braids; they look nice and they seem to stay put. Ponytail braids happen to work best for me, especially if I am sport climbing. It is important to take into account how long your hair is, because if it is too long there are certain hairstyles that won’t work if you are wearing a chalk bag, because your hair can literally end up in the bag when you look up at the holds on the route or problem. Braids seem to be a trend amongst most athletes as well, for example, Jennifer Kessy and April Ross rocked the ponytail braids while they were kicking some tails on the court.

Jennifer Kessy and April Ross celebrate while sporting the classic ponytail braid. 

     When it comes down to it doing your best in a competition is obviously the most important thing, but it doesn’t hurt to look your best too! 

I chose to wear a ponytail braid during qualifiers at SCS Nationals. I loved the way it looked, and it never got in my way! 

Back in the Game

     I recently came back to the sport that I found when I was eleven, one that I would call my passion, rock climbing. Following my college graduation and the conclusion of my track career I decided that climbing was the only thing I wanted to do. Since I’ve come back to climbing I have done quite a few competitions as well as really try to get outside as much as I can. My outdoor adventures began with an amazing two-week trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee, where I stayed with my good friends Kasia and Jimmy. This trip was the first time that I had spent more than a couple of days at an area, and I must say that I enjoyed every minute of it. Following that trip, I got the opportunity to go to Switzerland! Kasia and Jimmy invited me to go with them, and I am so grateful that they did, because Switzerland was, for lack of a better word, breathtaking! Everyday I had to pinch myself, because I could not believe that I was actually there. The rock there was unbelievably amazing as was scenery of the country in its entirety. Not only was the climbing incredible, but I also met some extraordinary fellow climbers while I was there. I can honestly say that Switzerland is a place that I want to go back to as soon as I can, but next time I plan on making my trip much longer.

The view from our kitchen window in Chironico, Switzerland!

  

                        Pamplemousse V11 in Brione, Switzerland! Photo by Albert Barti Wuersch  

     In addition to getting back into the climbing scene I decided to make a huge life decision and make the move from Florida to Boulder, Colorado. Despite my fears, due to the rash decision I made, my experience thus far has been better than I could have ever imagined. Not only have I reconnected with so many wonderful people that I knew from my younger days, but I have also had the pleasure of meeting so many new amazing people that have welcomed me with open arms. I’ve only been in Boulder for a few weeks and I’ve already had the opportunity to climb outside every weekend, compete in SCS Nationals, and take a trip to Joe’s Valley, not a bad way to start this new chapter in my life!

  

The finals route at SCS Nationals! Photo by Beau Kahler